Analysis of "时世妆" - Classical Chinese Poetry

Introduction

The poem "时世妆" (Shíshì Zhuāng, "Contemporary Makeup") was written by the Tang Dynasty poet Bai Juyi (772-846), one of China's most celebrated literary figures. Known for his socially conscious poetry, Bai Juyi often critiqued fashion trends and societal norms through his works. This particular poem offers a satirical look at the extravagant makeup styles popular among Tang Dynasty women, reflecting the poet's concerns about superficial values and the loss of traditional aesthetics.

Written during the mid-Tang period when China was experiencing cultural transformation, "时世妆" holds significance as both a cultural document and literary masterpiece. It exemplifies Bai Juyi's characteristic style - straightforward yet profound, using everyday observations to comment on deeper societal issues.

The Poem: Full Text and Translation

时世妆

Shíshì zhuāng

Contemporary makeup

时世妆，时世妆，

Shíshì zhuāng, shíshì zhuāng,

Contemporary makeup, oh contemporary makeup,

出自城中传四方。

Chū zì chéng zhōng chuán sìfāng.

Emerging from the city, spreading to all directions.

时世流行无远近，

Shíshì liúxíng wú yuǎnjìn,

This fashionable trend knows no distance,

腮不施朱面无粉。

Sāi bù shī zhū miàn wú fěn.

Cheeks without rouge, face without powder.

乌膏注唇唇似泥，

Wū gāo zhù chún chún sì ní,

Black paste applied to lips like mud,

双眉画作八字低。

Shuāng méi huà zuò bā zì dī.

Eyebrows drawn in downward "eight" shape.

妍媸黑白失本态，

Yán chī hēi bái shī běn tài,

Beauty and ugliness lose their true nature,

妆成尽似含悲啼。

Zhuāng chéng jǐn sì hán bēi tí.

The finished makeup all looks like tearful sorrow.

圆鬟无鬓堆髻样，

Yuán huán wú bìn duī jì yàng,

Round chignons without sideburns piled high,

斜红不晕赭面状。

Xié hóng bù yùn zhě miàn zhuàng.

Slanted red makeup without blending, ochre-faced.

昔闻被发伊川中，

Xī wén bèi fà Yīchuān zhōng,

I've heard of people with disheveled hair in Yichuan,

辛有见之知有戎。

Xīn yǒu jiàn zhī zhī yǒu róng.

Xin You saw it and knew barbarians would come.

元和妆梳君记取，

Yuánhé zhuāng shū jūn jì qǔ,

Remember the Yuanhe era's makeup styles,

髻堆面赭非华风。

Jì duī miàn zhě fēi Huá fēng.

Piled hair and ochre faces are not Chinese customs.

Line-by-Line Analysis

The opening repetition of "时世妆" creates a rhythmic emphasis, immediately drawing attention to the fashionable trend. Bai Juyi notes how city trends spread rapidly to the provinces, suggesting the powerful influence of urban centers.

The description of the makeup technique is remarkably detailed. The "black paste" on lips and downward-sloping "eight" shaped eyebrows (lines 5-6) refers to actual Tang Dynasty beauty trends influenced by Central Asian customs. The poet observes how this style makes all women look uniformly sorrowful, erasing individual beauty.

Lines 9-10 describe the hairstyle - round chignons without the traditional framing sideburns, with unblended red makeup creating an unnatural ochre complexion. This departure from traditional Chinese aesthetics clearly disturbs the poet.

The historical reference to Yichuan (lines 11-12) is particularly significant. Bai Juyi recalls how the ancient sage Xin You interpreted disheveled hair as an omen of barbarian invasion, suggesting these foreign-inspired fashions might signal cultural decline.

The final couplet serves as a warning - the poet urges readers to remember that these extreme styles (popular during Emperor Xianzong's Yuanhe reign) deviate from proper Chinese customs.

Themes and Symbolism

Cultural Identity: The poem explores tensions between traditional Chinese values and foreign influences. The exotic makeup symbolizes the larger cultural changes occurring through Silk Road exchanges.

Social Criticism: Bai Juyi critiques blind following of fashion and the loss of natural beauty. The uniform "tearful" appearance suggests how trends erase individuality.

Historical Consciousness: The reference to Xin You connects contemporary fashion to historical patterns, implying that aesthetic changes may foreshadow political ones.

Nature vs. Artifice: The poet contrasts the artificial "ochre faces" with what he sees as more authentic Chinese beauty standards.

Cultural Context

During the Tang Dynasty (618-907), China experienced unprecedented cultural exchange along the Silk Road. While this brought economic prosperity and artistic innovation, some Confucian scholars like Bai Juyi worried about the "barbarization" of Chinese culture.

The specific makeup style criticized - with dark lips, pale faces, and peculiar eyebrows - originated from Tibetan and Turkic influences. This poem reflects the conservative Confucian view that proper appearance reflected moral order. Bai Juyi served as a government official, and his poetry often carried didactic purposes, using aesthetic criticism to comment on broader societal issues.

Conclusion

"时世妆" remains remarkably relevant today as a meditation on fashion, cultural identity, and social conformity. Bai Juyi's vivid descriptions transport us to Tang Dynasty streets while his concerns echo modern debates about globalization and tradition. The poem's enduring power lies in how it transforms a simple observation about makeup into profound cultural commentary.

Ultimately, Bai Juyi challenges us to consider: When we adopt new trends, what might we be losing of ourselves? His warning about distinguishing authentic traditions from passing fashions resonates across centuries and cultures.